FMS406SleePNewElizabethans: October 2015

Practice - 07:49

Contouring

After making sure you applied the perfect base (matching the foundation and correcting any areas with discolouration with concealer) we ...

Practice - 03:30

Base

I found the hardest part about applying the base is getting the colour correct for the foundation. To match it up you have to apply wha...

In today’s lesson we focused on Eyes, Brows and Lips.

Eyes:

We got given a piece of paper similar to the picture shown below about the different kind of eye shapes and the way in which you should apply eye makeup in order to create an illusion to even out the eye shape. We decided that Olivia had Small lids and large brow so for that i had to apply my darker colour just above the socket so that when she opened her eyes the colour was still visible.

We were taught to apply translucent powder underneath the eyes so that if any eyeshadow dropped under the eye we could easily wipe it away. I used a gold shade all over her eyelid and a matte dark brown shade in her socket and outer corner.

We also got taught how to blend the eyeshadow using a cotton bud and some translucent powder and this helps a lot if you have too much colour on the eyelid and you just want to blend some of it away.

After applying all the eyeshadow we moved onto mascara. We used a technique where we applied it to the top of the lashes and then underneath making sure that we got right to the root of the lash every time. Once the top lashes had dried we then asked out client to look up and applied mascara to the lower lashes.

If curling the eyelashes is needed then you can curl before or after applying mascara.

I think that the eyeshadow went ok, i just needed to blend the darker colours a lot more to make it softer.

Brows:

We were shown to apply a eye shadow shade depending on the brows. I chose a lighter brown and then in the places where the hair didn’t grow as thick i used a darker brown eyeshadow. I used an angled brush and lightly applied the shadow to the hairs on the brow. This created a very natural looking brow.

Lips:

We were shown to apply the lip colour with an angled brush, this way you can use the flip technique on the bow of the lip to create that precise lip line. We mixed the shade we wanted on the back of our hand and applied it whilst asking our client to ‘stretch’ their lips so that the lips are taught and easier to apply the colour on. As we are applying the colour we keep asking the client to rub their lips together and also to blot using a tissue, this way we don’t get any excess product and we don’t create lines on the lips.

After that was complete we took some translucent powder and applied that to the lips with a fluffy blush brush just to set the lipstick and give it a softer effect. Liv’s lips were quite dry and the colour i chose emphasised that a lot so next time i will make sure to choose a colour that the dryness is less visible and also moisturise her lips before hand.

Practice - 03:29

Eyes, Brows & Lips

In today’s lesson we focused on Eyes, Brows and Lips. Eyes: We got given a piece of paper similar to the picture shown below abou...

Practice - 12:58

White Base

Kryolan AQUA Colour Applying the Aqua colour was really hard, it was extremely streaking and hard to blend. I used a foundation brush...

Research - 08:42

Elizabethan portrait

The Rainbow portrait Symbolism: Cloak is decorated with eyes and ears- She hears and sees all. Pearls- Virginity. Crown- Ro...

Practice - 15:54

Halloween Makeup: Skeleton/ Skull

This halloween i decided to create a skull / skeleton look on myself. This was my first attempt at it and to be honest i was really imp...

Analogous

For my Analogous design i chose to use warm shades so i went with Red, Orange and Yellow. I used sharp angles because the face chart i used gave me the inspiration to use sharp lines because of the way it has been designed. I used red and yellow on the eyes and also included a gold line underneath the red. For the cheeks i used a mixture of orange and yellow shadows to make a contour. I like the contrast of the softness of the eyeshadow and the contour but the harshness of the liner and bold lip. For the lips i wanted to do a orange lips with a red ombré however the ombre didn't work as i wanted it to because the red blended in too much with the orange causing a darker lip. Next time i will make sure i am more careful when blending the supra colours on the lips so that i can get my ombre effect.

Complementary

For my complementary look i chose to use purple and yellow as they were opposite each other on the colour wheel. I used a lot of sharp lines again in this look and kept it very precise and contrasting it only a little with the soft ombre effect on the lips. For the eyes i used supra colours to create a strong, pigmented liner doing a double flick with the purple and then adding yellow in between the 2 flicks. For the cheeks i used a contour powder which when i practice this look will be a couple of shades darker than the models skin tone. For the lips i created a ombre effect again but this time putting the darker colour in the centre of the lips with the lighter colour on the outside. This didn't work too well on the face chart as the purple didn't show up on the yellow too well and just went really dark.

Monochromatic

For my monochromatic look i decided to go for the colour red as it was kind of relatable to the Elizabethan research we have been doing recently. I have seen a similar eye look to this on the catwalk at a fashion week in the past and it was what just sprung to mind when i was designing my first look. I really like the sharp, hardness of it yet it fades out softly. I wanted to make a statement with the lip as well as the eyes so i went for a bright red lip that was extremely pigmented to create that effect. I also did a red contour using the bright red blush. I felt that this look wasn't really coming together so i added something extra to the lips. I used Mac reflex red on the centre of the lips just to have some glitter instead of the look being so flat and one texture. When i practiced the look on Leah (Monochromatic blogpost) i used a white base, but i didn't like the way it made the powders so patchy and i didn't get the look that i imagined when i was designed it on my face chart.

Practice - 14:21

3 Types of facecharts

Analogous For my Analogous design i chose to use warm shades so i went with Red, Orange and Yellow. I used sharp angles because the fac...

Practice - 13:08

Face Charts & Colour Wheel

Face Charts This was the first face chart i have ever done, it was on regular paper and not the solent face chart paper which has b...

Practice - 12:19

Monochromatic- Red

I practiced my monochromatic design today on Leah in class. It was my first time really doing makeup on someone else whilst ...

Research - 09:17

Contemporary Portrait: J.K. Rowling by Stuart Pearson Wright

J.K. Rowling By Stuart Pearson Wright Sitter: Joanne Kathleen (J.K). Rowling Artist: Stuart Pearson Wright (2005) Oil on board co...

Research - 06:26

Self Portrait

For my self portrait i involved items that meant things to me within my life. Train tickets: I travel a lot in my life. With sporting ...

Research - 13:16

Symbols within portraits

In the Elizabethan era symbols within portraiture was extremely important and was a way of communicating with the rest of the world. The sit...

Research - 12:43

Tudor Cosmetics & Dangers

Pale, Snow White skin (ceruse): Egg Whites Powdered egg shells Alum Borax White poppy seeds This would have been applied t...

Research - 08:24

Actors who played Elizabeth

Sarah Bernhardt - Les Amours d’Elisabeth, Reine d’Angleterre / The Loves of Elizabeth, Queen of England. This was a French silent film...

- 17:10

Partner Feedback

During one of seminars we were asked to look at our partners blogs and give them feedback on what they were doing well and what they c...

Elizabeth (1998) was a filmed based on the story of Elizabeth I getting into power in England. Written by Michael Hirst and Directed by Shekhar Kapur. Elizabeth was played by Cate Blanchett.

Before Elizabeth was even considered for the role of Queen she was a regular Elizabethan time working class woman. She did not have any fancy dresses or wear any makeup. Her hair was red and long and wavy, which you could tell was her natural hair. Elizabeth is the half sister of Mary the Queen at the time so is next in throne when they find out that Mary is ill and is dying so a new queen of England needs to be found. At this part in the film she is very innocent and not powerful at all, her makeup is extremely natural if there is any.

As she came into power after Mary passed away, she was crowned Queen of England and remained still very natural however some rouge was worn on her lips. Her hair was down in a natural condition. Nothing really changed from before she was crowned, however she wore expensive dresses and looked a little more put together.

At this point in the film Elizabeth was a powerful queen, you can see she is wearing some sort of face makeup to create the pale look that Elizabethan women wore at the time. However, now you can see that her hair is a lot more put together, she also has pieces to go in her hair to show her wealth and power. Her hair is curled tighter and in an up do. She also is wearing rouge on her cheeks now as well as her lips. Her eyebrows are also covered to give the effect that she has none as this is what Elizabethan women did at that time to create the illusion of a larger forehead.

This is the final look that you see Elizabeth in. At this point in the film she has just become known at the 'Virgin Queen' she was 'married to her country' and is the most powerful person in England. Her makeup is a lot more extreme, she has a much paler almost white face and rouge on the lips and cheeks. Her eyebrows are non existent to create the illusion of a larger forehead and her hair is red and in an up do with pearls in to show her wealth and importance.

The looks that they have created within this film are an accurate representation of what portraits have shown that Elizabethan women looked like at the time. However, the looks have been adapted slightly for a contemporary audience as they are a lot less harsh and softer than what the women would have worn at the time. The colours are all what have been described through portraits and historical evidence, they have just been adapted for a more modern audience for a better understanding to people today.

Research - 12:50

Elizabeth (1998) Makeup Transformation

Elizabeth (1998) was a filmed based on the story of Elizabeth I getting into power in England. Written by Michael Hirst and Directed by She...

Beauty was very important in Elizabethan times both for men and women. The way in which they were portrayed to other people or artists painting their portrait was vital. The way they looked defined their personality and the background that they had come from. Pieces of clothing and specific products that were used on the skin mean different things to the upper and lower class. It was very important to define what class you were from and show off your wealth.

During Elizabethan times it was only the Upper class that wore a lot of makeup and had their hair in up do's / wigs made for them to wear everyday. The lower class did not wear makeup because 1. It was too expensive and 2. The working class were expected to work outside which therefore meant they got a sun tan.

The white, pale face represented wealth and nobility, showing that they were a part of the upper class. The main look that they achieved in those times for queens was light hair and very pale complexions. The pale complexions were achieved by a poisonous substance put on their face to dye their skin a white colour. The most common application was 'Ceruse' which was a mixture of White lead and Vinegar which was poisonous to the skin. ‘ The idea was that the dark patch or spot would further emphasise her pale complexion - the feminine ideal of all time.’ Queen Elizabeth used to draw a beauty mark with black kohl on her face to enhance the paleness of her skin.

In order to dye their hair a pale yellow they would use a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Through recreations and portraits of Elizabethan women it is obvious that they all tried to achieve a very similar look. They all had red hair and pale complexions with rouge accents to the cheeks and lips. Urine was also used to dye the hair or if they couldn't achieve the light, red hair tone that they wanted they would go bald and wear wigs.

A high forehead, arched eyebrows and bright eyes were also essential. They would pluck their hair line at least an inch back in order to create the illusion of a higher forehead because that was considered a sign of aristocracy.

Overall, the ideal beauty image of the Elizabethan times was set by Elizabeth I who had the perfect look for an elizabethan woman, she was idolised and recognised for this reason. The Elizabethan women was expected to show her wealth and authority through the makeup and hair styles that she wore. She would add hair pieces to show off what she was able to afford. ‘ Besides her role as visual communicator of family wealth, the Elizabethan noble woman played a role in the household.’

References:

Cosgrave,B. 2000. Costume & Fashion a complete history. Great Britain: Hamlyn. (Page 60)

Breward,C. 1995. The culture of fashion. Uk and New York: Manchester University press and St Martins press.

Research - 12:25